History
THE HISTORY OF UPOTTERY AND THE SURROUNDING AREA
Extract from “The Chorographical Description (or Survey) of Devon” by Tristram Risdon, London 1811 p.22 - Guildhall Library
This book was completed in 1632 and first published 80 years later in manuscript form. A full version was however not published until 1811, from which the following extracts are taken: “ Next to Yartcombe, on the West, is the Manor of Roridge, in the parish of Upottery, which William the Conqueror gave to the church of St.Mary in Rouen; and the dean and chapter of Rouen, with the consent of King Henry the Third and Odo, Archbishop of Rouen (for £100 employed to the use of their church) granted this land unto Sir William Cheney and Felicia, his wife, in these words:
“ nobili viro Wilielmo de Cheney milit. & Feliciae uxori ejus & haeredibus eorum vel assignat suis in libr. Saccas & reddend annulatim unum librum (eoram libram) cere apud manorium nostrum de Ottery St.Mary..”
"Noble Wilielmo thousands of Cheney. Of them, or their assigns for his wife and to the heirs of Felicia & proven in the book. Bags and paying annulatus one book (before books) although with our player of Ottery St.Mary .. " (translated from the Latin by Google Translate)
This land, by Anne, one of the daughters and heirs of Edmund Cheney, Knight, married unto Sir John Willoughby described unto the daughter of Sir Robert Willoughby, Lord Brooke, who gave it unto his two daughters, Elizabeth and Anne, by his second wife, the Marquis of Dorset’s daughter. This manor, by Act of Parliament, was allotted unto Charles, Lord Mountjoy, Earl of Devon, described from the said Anne.
Upottery taketh name of the River Otter, which riseth at Otterforde in Somersetshire, having its adjunct Up in that it is the highest place where its spring maketh itself a river. In the Conqueror’s time, Ralph de Pomery was Lord of the Manor here, in which name it continued until the reign of King Edward the First, when it came unto Cheney and descended in the same manor as Roridge.
There inhabiteth the worthy race of the Preston’s, of which was Captain Preston, a man so rarely qualified in the arts, and so well in conversation, that he had the love of all who knew him.
Anno 5 Edw.3 Clemens le Botelier tenet terras in Up-ottery & Hele, reddend: Domino regi tres sagittas barbatas, quotiescunq. Dominus rex venerit apud redmere causa venandi (II)..”
Year 5 Edw.3 Clement le Botelier holds lands in Up-ottery and Helem, making the bearded king three arrows, as often. The king comes with a hunting redmere{redeemer?} (translated from the Latin by Google Translate)
[ Ibidem, p.366]
“ The manors of Up-Ottery and Roridge were purchased of Edward Popham, of Littlecott, in Wiltshire, Esq. The descendant of Lord C J Popham, by Dr.Addington, of London, and are now the property of his son, Henry Addington, Lord Viscount Sidmouth”
[ Extract from “Collections towards a Description of the County of Devon” by Sir William Pole, who died in 1635, with his work first printed by his descendant, Sir John William de la Pole, in 1791 ]
UPOTERY
Upotery, in the hundred of Axminster taketh his name of ye river Oter, which hath his first springe not farr of, at Oterford, in Somersetshire, & unladeth his waters at Otermouth into the ocean, British seas. This, in the Conq. tyme (was the land) of Ralph de Pomeray; and in Kinge Henry 3 tyme, Sir Nicolas Cheyney was lord thereof. At what tyme the Deane and Chapter of Roane, with the conƒent of the Kinge & Archbishop of Roane, granted the same unto ye said Sir Will’m Cheyney, which they had formerly held of the grant of Willm. Conq. The said Sir Will’m, by Felicia his wief, had ißue Sr.Nicolas Cheney, Which by Elinor his wief had ißue Sir William, which had ißue Sir Edmond, which died without ißue. & Sr.Ralph, which by Jone, on of ye daughters of John Paveley, of Brooke, Kt. had ißue Sr Will’m, which by Cecily, on of the daughters & heires of Sr John Strech, Kt had ißue Sr.Edmond, & John Cheyney, of Pinho. Sr.Edmond by Alis Stafford, has ißue Anne, wief of Sr.John Willoughby, which had ißue Robert Willoughby Lo.Brooke, whose sonne Robert Lo.Brookeconveyed this land, amongst others, unto his twoe daughters; by his wief Dorothe Gray, Elisab. wief of John Pawlet, Marques of Winchester, & Anne, wief of Charles Blunt, Lo.Mountjoy. This mannor, with others, were allotted by act of Parliament unto Charles Lo.Mountjoy, Erle of Devon, & by him conveyed unto Mountjoy, nowe Erle of Newport. This I will sette downe playnely hereafter.”
[Extract from “The Hundreds of Axminster aand Exmouth” by the Rev. O.J.Reider pp. 156 - 165]
Upottery
The hamlet, or manor, of Rawridge has always been an important part of this parish. Edward the Confessor seems to have included it with the Church lands of Ottery St.Mary when he gave the property to the Dean and Chapter of Rouen. “St.Edward then King gave the Manor of Ottery S.M. to the Dean and Chapter of Rouen ... of which the Manor of Rore Rigg was part” Domesday records it as being held by a Saxon lady Ulvera, and given by the Conqueror to the Canon of St.Mary of Rouen. In the 13Th.Century, King Henry III, with the consent of the Archbishop of Rouen, granted the Manor to William de Chayney and Felicia, his wife, £100 being paid to the church of St.Mary at Rouen., and an agreement for the rent of one pound of wax paid annually to the church of St.Mary Ottery, then belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Rouen. William de Cheyney (elsewhere erroneously called Nicholas) dies about 1267; his widow Felicia then married Sir John de Hardington and must have again been left a widow for in 1291 she claimed rights of frankpledge, gallows and assize of bread and beer at Rawridge which the Abbot of Newenham asserted belonged to him: the Abbot established his claim.
Rawridge
At Rawridge there is a fountain with the inscription "This fountain was erected in lasting memory of my husband, Gerald 4th Viscount Sidmouth. The welfare of his tenants was his constant thought and his lasting care was to give them this supply of pure water. he died on March 25th 1915
There was a chapel at Rawridge in the 12th.Century for in 1191 a dispute was settled between the Canon of Rouen and William the priest of St.Peter’s - ( It does not seem very clear what St.Peter’s refers to - was it the dedication of Rawridge chapel?) - when it was acknowledged “that the said chapel ought to belong to the church of Rouen. In return the Canon (of Rouen) moved by divine love have granted the chapel of the said chaplain for the annual payment of one begant (20 pence) at the Assumption” At a later period, the chapel must have fallen into disrepair for in 1278 it was reported as roofless.
The advowson was was vested in 1289 on Sir John de Hardington in right of his wife Felicia and on Oct.27 of that year they conveyed it to the Dean and Chapter of Exeter who undertook to provide a resident priest to say service daily, instead of only 3 days in the week as had been previously the case.
In 1408, the Chapter paid 20 shillings to the chaplain of Rowrygh.
But the Cheyneys still held on to the property. In 1420, William Cheyney died seized of the Manor and advowson of the chapel of Rawridge.
The Commission of Edward VI assumed that the chapel at Rawridge had been founded by the Chapter of Exeter Cathedral. The Charity Rolls describe it as “ the paryshe of Upoterye. The free chapel there called Rawrige founded by the Dean and Chapter of Exeter. To fynde a pryst to mynyster ..service in the chapel of Rawryge who hath for his salary a yerely pencon of c.s (hundred shillings) payable by t’above naymed Dean and Chapter”.
In 1536 William Split was the charity priest. As the excuse of superstitious cases “could not be alledged for the founding of the chapel it was most likely impressed on the plea of not being more than three miles from the parish church.
The vicar of Upottery, The Rev. John Jane in a letter dated 1921 informed me that; “ A dwelling now occupies the site of the chapel into which parts of the old building are incorporated. A small pointed window lights the drawing room and the roof above has arched timbers. Remains of carved stones on this site were sold many years ago.”
Smeatharpe - As I remember - Ruby Cooke, with help from Lewis Arscott and Mrs B. Woolacott
Rawridge - Greg Doughty
From a Trade Directory (date to be ascertained) around 1890;
p.376-377
The rev.George Lowe is the vicar and in 1843-4 erected a new Vicarage House, in the Elizabethan style, at the cost of about £1600. The glebe is about 10 acres and the tithes were commuted in 1841, the vicarial for £431, and the rectorial for £350.10s. per annum. The parish is chiefly in pasturage, and forms a pleasing landscape from either side of the valley.... The poor parishioners have 15A of land and a barn, left by Anne Palmer in 1714 and now let for £12 a year. The rent is distributed at Easter, together with a yearly rent charge of 40s left by Henry Preston, in 1623, out of Greenhays Farm.
In 1748, Robert Newbery left a yearly rent of 50s. out of Six Acres Close, to the baptist minister.
Smeatharpe
The name “Smeatharpe” has been suggested to have originated from the name of a blacksmith named Harp (or Harpe). Whether or not he lived at the site of the house now called ‘The Old Forge’ is unknown.
However, on the 1809 Ordnance Survey map Smeatharpe is in fact called "Smith Harp". One meaning of the word Harp is that it was a common term for a scythe (which is harp shaped) and scythes would have been in great demand for cutting crops before the 1850's when agricultural mechanisation came along with the industrial revolution. A blacksmith who produced good quality scythes which retained a sharp edge would have been in great demand, so it is possible that the name referred to a blacksmith or 'smith who made good scythes or harps and possibly lived at the house known as "The Old Forge".
The Old School House in the village was built and founded in 1871 when it was given by Lord Sidmouth to the people of Smeatharpe when schooling became mandatory for all children by Act of Parliament. Read more about the school house at Lady Sidmouth's School at Smeatharpe.
On air maps, the old WWII Smeatharpe airfield site is marked as Upottery. The book Historical Airfields by Dr Mike Glanvill provides more information about the airfield. The following is an extract from the book:
“Smeatharpe is one of several East Devon WWW2 Airfields. At Churchstanton (close to Smeatharpe) re-named Culmhead on 22 December 1943, there were based, at various times, several Fighter Units that included Polish and Czech Squadrons, a Naval Fighter Wing of the Fleet Air Arm, six Squadrons of RAF Spitfires, the first Meteor Unit (JETS) and a Glider Training School (Hotspur and Master Tugs).
Smeatharpe was built mainly for D-Day use only. Up to 6 June 1944 the aerodrome was used by the USAAF SKY Trains and Waco Hadrians. Sky Trains were also called DC3 or Dakota (by the RAF). They were used during the War to transport 28 fully armed Paratroopers, 18 stretchers for wounded troops, military cargo (eg 2 light trucks) and anything else that would fit through its cargo doors and weighed not much more than 3 tons. The DC was also used to tow gliders for the D-Day landings. This particular aircraft could also be used as an efficient high speed glider by the simple means of removing its engine and fairings over the empty cowls, and offer non-essential eight. As a glider it could carry 40 fully armed troops at a top speed of 290 mph, 90 mph faster than any other transport glider, and 26% faster than its own top speed as a transport plane.
Simultaneously with the US Navy’s departure from nearby Dunkeswell (now an active airfield for light aircraft and micro-lights) Smeatharpe was abandoned. Some suggest the aerodrome was used as a satellite for the US Navy’s Anti-Submarine Liberation Squadron stationed at Dunkeswell…….”
More Smeatharpe Memories:
Memories of Smeatharpe Airfield
NEWSPAPER EXCERPTS
Honiton and Ottery Gazette Volume I, No.1
Saturday, 8 December 1883
Reference to Oliver Rowland, a traveller from Upottery, witness to a prosecution of Richard Spurle, licensee of York Inn, Churchstaunton, for opening during prohibited hours on a Sunday.
Board of Guardians (Responsible for overseeing the needs of the parish poor)
R.. Maker - Presided
H. Ford - Vice chairman
Hon.Maj.Addington, Maj.Speid, Rev. J.H.Copleston, Messrs. Fowler, Burrows, Warren, Snell, Loveridge, Collier, Pile, Pratt, Toogood, Burrough, Pearcey, Harvey, Eveleigh, Newberry, Dolling, Pope, S.Broom
The number in the Home was reported to be 77. Contribution orders made payable from 19 January .... Upottery, £128 "
News
James Pavey and Sidney North were summoned for trespassing on land in the occupation of Mr. W.Kibby, of Upottery, in pursuit of conies. Pleaded Not Guilty.
James Wyatt, underkeeper to Viscount Sidmouth* stated that on 23 October he was in a field on Preston Farm and heard the report of a gun and saw smoke rise. He ran in the direction of Mr.Kibby's field and saw North walking by the side of a hedge in the field occupied by Mr.Pavey. The defendant James Pavey was on the opposite side of the hedge in a field in the occupation of Mr.Kibby. Witness ran up to North and asked him what he was doing. He replied: "Nothing, only giving a look around." Witness searched North and found a net in one of his pockets. Upon questioning Pavey, he produced a warm rabbit. Witness asked him for his gun, but he denied having one. However, he searched the hedge and there found the gun charged and capped. North's mother, called for the defence, said that on the day in question, she was in her garden with the defendant when a report of a gun was heard. After a few minutes, they both went down the road. She had never known her son to have a gun in his possession at all. By the Bench: Could not say in which direction the gun was fired. Defendants found guilty and fined 5/- and 7/6 costs each."
( N.B. Lord Sidmouth was Chairman for these proceedings of the Honiton Petty Sessions)
News
Saturday 12 January 1884
Viscount Sidmouth on Wednesday caused upwards of 6 tons of coals to be distributed amongst the poor of the parish.
Saturday 8 March 1884
George Aplin of Upottery applied for a license to sell benzoline at a house in Sandy Lane, Upottery. The Bench instructed the sergeant of police to report as to the fitness and situation of the house on 2 April next.
Edward Hill, farmer of Upottery, appeared and pleaded guilty to a summons charging him with keeping two dogs without licenses. Fined 10/- for each dog and 10/6d costs.
Saturday 5 April 1884
Petroleum license
P.C. Badcock attended (Court) to make a report as to the suitability of premises situate at Sandy Lane, Upottery. He stated that he had seen the place, the roof of which was thatched. It was situate over 50 yards from the dwelling-houses and three of its sides were boarded. The license was refused.
Saturday 3 May 1884
Richard Tacker of Upottery summoned for allowing pigs etc. to stray on the highway. Defendant did not appear. P.C. Stagg proved that at about 3.30 p.m. he was in Upottery and saw four pigs and a heifer straying on the highway. He went to the defendant and told him of the fact and that, as he had been cautioned so many times before, he should report him. Defendant said he supposed some persons must have left the doors open when they went out with the horses. The animals were about 400 yards from the buildings. Fined 2/- for each animal and costs to be paid before 3 June.
Anthony Addington, Physician
and Henry Addington, Prime Minister.
Anthony Addington was a doctor with a successful London practice. He was both friend and physician to William Pitt, Earl of Chatham. When Chatham was seriously ill he would have no other doctor attend him, and when his sickly son, Pitt the Younger, was ill Addington gained both fame and popularity by his faith in port wine as a remedy for gout. In 1788, when George III was temporarily insane, Addington was summoned by the Prince of Wales to treat him and he was the only doctor who foretold of the king's recovery. In 1780, he bought the Upottery estate.
His son, Henry, was born in London on 30th May 1751. Educated at Winchester and Brasenose College, Oxford, Henry Addington practiced law until his childhood friend, William Pitt the Younger, persuaded him to stand for Parliament. 1783 saw his election as MP for Devizes
Although he was not a good orator, he was a diligent committee man and was considered to have plenty of common sense. So in 1789, the year of the fall of the Bastille and revolution in France, he became speaker of the House of Commons. In the 11 years that he held the post, he was respected on all sides of the House as a fair and judicial arbiter of debate, and as a parliamentarian well-versed in the procedure of the House of Commons. He was also regarded as pompous, long-winded and totally lacking in humour.
In 1801 William Pitt resigned as Prime Minister because King George III could not accept Catholic emancipation in Ireland. Addington was called upon to form a government. Reluctantly he did so and his king rewarded him with a house in Richmond Park, London and seven cows from his own herd. One of his first acts was to make peace with France thus opening up the tourist industry: the English flocked across the Channel to view the scenes of the French Revolution and to gaze upon Napoleon. Another popular move was to halve income tax.
His successes, however, were short-lived. The peace with France lasted just fifteen months; it ended when Napoleon invaded Switzerland. More ominously, French troops were assembling in Boulogne, intent on invading England. In the Commons, his poor verbal skills laid him open to the merciless but brilliant oratory of Pitt and his friends. And in a Parliament dominated by aristocratic snobbery, he was considered to be middle class. After 3 years he resigned and took the title of Viscount Sidmouth. Nelson wrote to his friend Lord Sidmouth describing how he intended to engage the Fleets of France and Spain.
He continued to hold public office until, in 1811, he became Secretary of State for Home Affairs. It was a time when the horrors of the French Revolution were still fresh and in Britain a period of considerable radical activity. Addington acquired fame of a disagreeable kind. While Home Secretary, the Cato Street conspiracy occurred when the whole Cabinet was to be murdered while it sat at dinner; the Luddites smashed the stocking-making machinery that was taking the jobs of men; and eleven demonstrators died at Peterloo. He reacted by bringing in repressive laws, censorship of the press and suspending Habeas Corpus. In his 30 years in Parliament, he served in six administrations. Canning remarked: "He is like the smallpox. Everybody is obliged to have him once in their lives."
He married twice; his first wife, Ursula, bore him six children; his second, Mary, whom he married in his sixties, brought him a considerable fortune.
He visited Upottery every year. In 1820, as a measure of his interest in his Devonshire estates, he granted more land to the curate in Upottery. The beneficial effect of Sidmouth's management of his estates in Devonshire, even during a period of hectic public work, is attested to by in a letter from that curate on his retirement as the incumbent in Upottery. In December 1833, George T. Smith, vicar of that village wrote to Sidmouth thanking him for all his albeit distant support: "It is not only to your lordship, but also to Lady Sidmouth and your family, that I feel deeply grateful for the ready and kind attention ever given to any suggestion relating to the poor, the sick or the education of the young."
Lord Sidmouth's benevolence and judicial management of his estates in Devon continued until 1838. Then, age and infirmity prevented him further from making the arduous journey down from his London home in Richmond Park. He died in 1844, aged 85, and was buried in the family vault of Mortlake church, just north of his beloved White Lodge in the park at Richmond
Although only an annual visitor to Upottery, he left his mark there upon the lives of those who worked on the estate. It seems likely, though, that without his public career, Lord Sidmouth may never have come to Devon to make his mark in any way.
The BBC Doomsday Project:
In 1986, the BBC Doomsday Project collected descriptions and pictures from around the UK as record of life in 1986. The villages of Upottery, Rawridge and Smeatharpe participated in this project. The information collected was put on early laser discs (CD's) which subsequently delaminated, so before it is lost the information collected has now been made available on a BBC website called Doomsday Reloaded. Follow the links below to read about life in 1986:
Upottery & Rawridge:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/domesday/dblock/GB-320000-105000
Smeatharpe:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/domesday/dblock/GB-316000-108000/page/1
Note the comment in the page on rural isolation about the cost of road tax being £100/car and petrol being £2/gallon(4.5litres)...Those were the days!
Additional links for more information about the parish of Upottery
http://www.cs.ncl.ac.uk/genuki/DEV/Upottery/index.html
http://www.parkhouse.org.uk/transcr/upottacc.htm
http://www.parkhouse.org.uk/photoalbum/places_upottery.htm
History of the Addingtons of Up Ottery and Earleigh Court, Lord Sidmouth
Includes a sketch of Upottery Manor being built:
http://landedfamilies.blogspot.com/2013/06/44-addington-of-up-ottery-and-erleigh.html